When selecting a finish for a hardwood bedside table, several factors must be considered. These include the desired aesthetic (e.g., matte, glossy, satin), the level of durability required (resistance to scratches, moisture, and wear), the ease of application, and the environmental impact of the finish. Three suitable finish types are varnish, lacquer, and oil.

Varnish: Varnish is a protective coating typically made from natural or synthetic resins dissolved in a solvent. It provides excellent durability and resistance to scratches and moisture. It can be applied in multiple coats, with sanding between each coat, to achieve a high gloss finish. Varnish is generally more durable than lacquer but can be more time-consuming to apply due to the multiple coats and sanding required. It's a good choice for a bedside table as it offers good protection against everyday use.

Lacquer: Lacquer is another type of resin-based finish, often applied in thin coats. It dries very quickly and can produce a very smooth, glossy finish. Lacquer is generally less durable than varnish and is more susceptible to scratching. It requires good ventilation during application due to the solvents used. While a lacquer could be used, it might require more careful consideration regarding wear and tear on a bedside table.

Oil Finish: Oil finishes, such as linseed oil or tung oil, penetrate the wood rather than forming a surface coating. This enhances the natural grain of the wood and provides a softer, more natural look. Oil finishes are less durable than varnish or lacquer and require regular reapplication to maintain protection. They are easier to apply than varnish or lacquer, but offer less protection against moisture and abrasion. An oil finish would be suitable if a more natural, rustic aesthetic is desired, but it would require more maintenance.

In summary, for a hardwood bedside table, varnish is likely the most appropriate choice due to its balance of durability, aesthetic appeal, and ease of application. The student should consider the specific type of varnish (e.g., polyurethane varnish for extra durability) and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully for application and safety.

For a lightweight plywood chair requiring moisture resistance and ease of cleaning, several finishing options are suitable. Three options are: water-based varnish, acrylic lacquer, and a polyurethane coating.

Water-Based Varnish: Water-based varnishes offer good moisture resistance and are environmentally friendly as they have lower VOC (volatile organic compound) content. They are easy to clean up with water and have a low odor. However, they may not be as durable as solvent-based varnishes and require more coats to achieve the same level of protection. Application is relatively straightforward, but proper drying time is crucial to avoid issues like clouding.

Acrylic Lacquer: Acrylic lacquer provides a hard, durable finish with excellent resistance to scratches and stains. It dries quickly and can be applied in thin coats. However, it contains solvents that can be harmful if inhaled, so good ventilation is essential during application. It's also more expensive than water-based varnish.

Polyurethane Coating: Polyurethane coatings are known for their exceptional durability and resistance to abrasion, moisture, and chemicals. They are a good choice for high-use areas. However, polyurethane can be more difficult to apply than other finishes, requiring careful application techniques to avoid runs and drips. It also has a stronger odor than water-based options and requires careful disposal of waste materials.

The best choice depends on the specific requirements. For a chair used indoors, water-based varnish offers a good balance of performance, environmental friendliness, and ease of application. If exceptional durability is paramount, polyurethane is the best option, but requires more skill in application. Acrylic lacquer is a good compromise between durability and ease of application, but requires careful ventilation.

a) Marking Out Joinery Details:

The specific steps depend on the joinery type. Here's a general outline:

• Joinery Type Understanding: Thoroughly understand the joinery type (e.g., mortise and tenon, dovetail) and its specific requirements.
• Layout Marking: Use a marking gauge, marking knife, or specialized joinery marking tools to accurately mark the location of the joinery elements (e.g., mortises, tenons, dovetails) on the timber pieces.
• Accuracy Checks: Use a ruler, calipers, or specialized jigs to check the accuracy of the joinery layout.
• Considerations for Joinery:

• Mortise and Tenon: Use a mortise marking gauge to accurately mark the mortise location.
• Dovetails: Use a dovetail marking knife to accurately mark the dovetail pins and tails.

b) Ensuring Accurate Angles:

Accurate angles are critical for a strong and stable frame.

• Combination Square: Use a combination square to mark out 90-degree angles.
• Protractor: Use a protractor to mark out angles other than 90 degrees.
• Angle Finder: Use an angle finder to measure and transfer angles from the working drawings.
• Setting Tools: Use a bench hook or a jig to help maintain accurate angles during cutting and assembly.
• Test Pieces: Create test pieces to check the accuracy of the angle marking and cutting techniques.